
After three days in Madrid, I woke up early, slipped out of the
apartment and took the local train to the Atocha train station. I had
a 7:40 train to Granada. Getting on board the trains in Spain and
France was more like boarding a plane. I needed seat reservations for
all the trains (also requiring a separate fee on top of what I already
paid for the ticket). So before getting on board, we had to present
our boarding pass and X-ray our luggage before proceeding to the track
platform. In Switzerland, at least on the domestic lines, the train
stops at the station and you hop on. A conductor comes through the car
later and you show your pass or ticket.
The trip to Granada took about 4 hours and I was met at the station by
my friend Kevin Mayer. He and I worked at Camp Luz together back in
the 90s. We also lived across the hall from one another for one
semester at Goshen College, when he roomed with Phil Christano, whom I
visited in Washington, DC on the first leg of this trip. This wasn't
the last Camp Luz connection to be made on this trip, but more on that
later.
Kevin and his wife Wendy and their two children have been living in
Granada for almost a year and a half. I hadn't met his children yet,
although I had been following their progress through the family blog.
I enjoyed hanging out with them for six day. We feasted on Wendy's
paella, countless tapas, and schawarmas at a tea shop owned by a
Lebanese friend of Kevin. Tapas are usually finger foods served in
bars and restaurants. Order a drink and you will also get a small
plate with, perhaps, some olives, a date rolled in bacon (surprisingly
good), a croquette, or some fried anchovies (or sardines, I can't
remember).
The largest meal of the day is served at 2:00 and dinner isn't until
9:00. By 2 o'clock, the children are home from school for the day.
While the kids were in school, Kevin showed me around Granada. We
visited the Albaicín, the old Moorish neighborhood, in which some
houses are built into caves in the hillside. We also visited the
Cathedral, the Royal Chapel containing the tombs of Ferdinand and
Isabela, and of course, the Alhambra. The Alhambra was a Moorish
palace built on the hill overlooking Granada. It was the last Moorish
place to fall during the Spanish reconquest of southern Spain. It then
became the palace of Ferdinand and Isabela and the site of Columbus'
famous proposition. It's a beautiful site and a very popular tourist
destination. The complex is quite large. You can view my photos below
and read some of the history on Wikipedia.
I was also able to meet several of their friends. We attended a
birthday party for a friend's child and attending a football (i.e.,
soccer) game on Sunday afternoon. Unfortunately, the Granada side
isn't having a very good season. There was no score for 80 minutes and
few shots on goal. With ten minutes left to play, a Granada player was
ejected and the other team scored a goal off the penalty kick. So
basically, nothing happened for 80 minutes and then everyone was in a
bad mood. And they wonder why the sport doesn't catch on in the U.S.
Still, it was fun to attend a soccer match in Spain. American football
didn't let us down though, as Kevin and I were able to watch (live
over the internet) the Ohio State Buckeyes thrash Michigan State,
45-7.
On Sunday morning we visited a gathering of small house churches in
Granada. It was a multi-lingual service, with a lot of people from
North America, other European countries and Southeast Asia. Initially,
I had trouble making the switch from German to Spanish, which is a
language I actually sort-of know. At least, by the end of my visit, I
was able to converse with some people. I couldn't understand
full-speed Spanish, and some people gave me trouble with their
Andalucian accents, but I definitely improved just in two weeks. A lot
of the Spanish that has laid dormant for a decade came back when
needed. It was an interesting experience to see an object and then
have the Spanish word for it simply pop into my head, seemingly from
nowhere.
I enjoyed Granada more than Madrid. I liked the more relaxed pace, the
old buildings and neighborhoods, and spending time with old friends.
Spanish culture is different than Swiss or American culture. The
personal space is much smaller. Northern Europeans don't like to touch
strangers so much. If you are sitting next to someone on the bus and
it goes around a corner and you slide over practically on top of the
person next to you, the American will sheepishly apologize and scoot
back over as far as possible. The Spaniard won't move and won't even
seem to notice that your legs are now touching. I also kissed more
women in two weeks than I have in the last, oh, 20 years? All on the
cheek of course. The Swiss also kiss--three times on the cheek
compared to the Spaniard's two times, but not someone they have just
met. I enjoyed going out in the evening. People are in the street
making their paseo, walking and meeting friends, instead of driving
everywhere. It's like the old cruising tradition in the U.S. but
without cars so you can actually, well, meet people and speak with
them.
But at the end of the week, it was time to say adios to Granada. So
with the music of Walt Disney's Robin Hood reverberating through my
skull (Did I mention that Kevin's daughter is four and really, really
likes that movie?) Kevin took me back to the train station and I
began my 12-hour train trip to Barcelona. More on that next time. I
took a lot of photos there, so it will take some time to upload them.
Photos of Granada and the Alhambra are below.
Granada Photos:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=9704&l=cbd0e&id=1036732070
More Photos of the Alhambra:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=9706&l=58b7b&id=1036732070
Links:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schwarma
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Croquette
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tapa_(food)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albaicin
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alhambra